Allstar Organics Tour
On July 27, 2014, CUESA visited Allstar Organics as part of “A West Marin Farm Tour with Chef Thomas McNaughton.”
Marty Jacobson and Janet Brown of Allstar Organics have been farming for 20 years in Marin and Sonoma Counties. Marty previously worked as a creative director in advertising, while Janet left her career as a marketing VP at a software company to farm. “I got into this because organic farming seemed like the least harmful thing I could do,” said Marty.
They lease 10 acres in Nicasio from the Lafranchi Dairy (Nicasio Valley Cheese Company), which is held under a Marin Agricultural Land Trust easement that requires the land remain a farm (or lie fallow) in perpetuity. At this location, Marty and Janet mostly grow crops that need to overwinter, such as onions and garlic. The couple also farms 2 acres in Lagunitas and 20 acres in Petaluma.
The farm grows herbs, flowers, and vegetables, including tomatoes, peppers, winter squash, and beans. The herbs are dried and used in salts, sugars, and hydrosols (essential waters). These unique value-added products have helped the farm develop their niche at the farmers market and give them something to sell year round, an important part of their economic viability.
Allstar’s hydrosol line began with Janet’s antique roses. Janet found it difficult to sell her beautiful but irregular bouquets to local florists, so upon a friend’s encouragement, she purchased a still and began making rose water. Since then, Allstar has experimented with distilling essences of other plants like Douglas fir and bay laurel.
All of the farm’s products are USDA-certified by Marin Organic Certified Agriculture (MOCA). The farm is also a member of Marin Organic, an organization that supports organic farmers in the county. Janet serves on their board.
The farm grows Spanish Roja garlic, a variety with a bolder flavor than the common “artichoke garlic.” Garlic cloves will be planted in the fall to produce green garlic in the spring and more mature bulbs in the summer. This garlic has gone to flower.
Marty pulled up some red onions. The farm has also been experimenting with growing calçots, on the suggestion of a shopper who buys for chefs in San Francisco. Popular in Spain, calçots are the shoots of onion bulbs that have been replanted. They have a sweet taste, delicious charred over an open fire and served with romesco sauce.
Organic catnip is another example of Allstar’s unusual products—a hit with pet owners.
This variety of celery known as “cutting celery” doesn’t grow stalks. Allstar uses its pungent stems and leaves in their celery salt.
Marty is also experimenting with growing hops.
Our group helped clean garlic by removing the outer husks to expose the cloves. Marty and Janet often do this work at home while watching TV or listening to radio programs.
Garlic , before and after cleaning.
Marty and Janet and their five workers put in up to 70 hours a week. They pay their employees well and many have stayed on for six or more years. “I would encourage anyone to get into farming,” said Marty. “It’s entrepreneurial. It’s really hard work. It’s dealing with people. It’s driving a truck!”
Our tour group enjoyed a farm-fresh meal in the shade by Nicasio Valley Cheese Company’s roadside cheese shop. Thank you to Allstar Organics and Nicasio Valley Cheese Company for hosting us!
